Showing posts with label Bucket List. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Bucket List. Show all posts

Saturday, September 8, 2012

Rumeli Hisari

Over the last couple weeks, I have gotten the chance to knock a few more things off my Istanbul bucket list, including trying a hamam.

Another bucket list item to check off was Rumeli Hisari - we have seen in it from the water on Bosphorus cruises. And we've seen the signs pointing into the direction of the fortress, but never wandered there.

This weekend, we decided to hit two birds with one stone - check out Rumeli AND visit Kale Cafe, which both local friends and Anthony Bourdain recommended.

Rumeli Hisari was a fortress built by the Sultan Mehmed II when the Ottomans were trying to take Constantinople. It is right across from another Ottoman fortress built the century before, strategically located on the narrowest point of the Bosphorus .For being a fortress on the water, it was built pretty speedily - in 4 months time. It must have worked because the next year, the Ottomans took Constantinople.


Today, there isn't much to see in the fortress itself. You can walk along the walls for great views of the Bosphorus, see the ampitheatre with the one minaret that remains of the mosque. That's about it. In itself, it may not be worth a trip to this part of town for people further away.


But for us, it was close by and the breakfast at Kale Cafe made it worth the trip.  Traditional Turkish breakfast usually consists of tomatoes, cucumbers, tulum/feta cheese, olives and bread. And I love this breakfast. Add to it more types of cheese - including fried cheese & cheese soaked in honey - traditional Turkish eggs (menemen), chai and delicious puffy bread and it gets even better. The idea is easy - you order breakfast and anything else you want on the side (hence the menemen). They come round every 10 minutes or so offering fresh chai and you can sit back, relax and enjoy the views of the Bosphorus bridge and waters.


Sunday, August 5, 2012

Istanbul Day Trip - Princes Islands

About 20 km southeast of Istanbul are a series of 9 islands called Princes Islands. Or at least that's what they are called in English, in Turkish they are more commonly referred to as Adalar (the islands). I still don't quite get the disparity between works in Turkish and English (e.g. Boğaz in Turkish, Bosphorous in English). If they are proper nouns, shouldn't they be the same?

I digress.

These islands got their name as they were originally used as a place for ex-princes and monarchs - doesn't seem like too terrible of an exile to me. Later in the 19th century, they became popular as summer resorts for the wealthy. Even today, they are most popular in the summer. The popular goes from 15,000 to 100,000 in the summer as people flock from Istanbul to escape the heat, crowds, and cars. That's right, the islands have no cars, with the exceptions of emergency and city vehicles (like the always important waste trucks). Such a nice respite from the incessant honking in Istanbul.

The islands have been on my bucket list for a while, but we hadn't yet made it there. The most difficult part was that I wanted to bring Belle with us. Getting around with a dog can be troublesome in Istanbul, so perhaps I was just avoiding what I thought would be an annoying and irksome process of getting her to Princes Islands for the day.

Luckily, we got some good advice and a car lent to us from a friend. We drove to Bostanci to take the direct ferry to Büyükada, the largest of the 9 islands. Other than finding the ferry port and finding parking, it was easy, breezy with the dog. She was showing off her tricks to all the Turks and making friends. Not to mention, she LOVED the boat ride. So many fish to see in the water, birds to see in the sky and things to smell in the air! 40 minutes of pure bliss for Belle and we arrived at Büyükada.

Beautiful ferry building at Bostanci
Belle looking pretty at Princes' Islands
Waterfront restaurants from the ferry docks
Despite this being one of my bucket list items, I really hadn't planned in advance. I had heard there was a monastery on the island and that was about it. So, we spent the entire day moseying a bit.

We had lunch and worried about the impending storm blowing through. Luckily, it hit Istanbul but avoided the islands. Good luck? Absolutely.

Stormy Istanbul. Despite sports shutter speed and a couple
hundred photos, I couldn't quite capture the lightening

Next we decided to try a feyton. These are the horse drawn carriages that are one of the main transports other than bikes on the island. Even Belle got to ride around. This is a great way to see the city in an hour, there aren't really major sites, but you can see some of the views and enjoy/envy the new summer homes.

Old streets lined with little shops and dondurma (Turkish
ice cream restaraunts)
Our feyton carriage

Someone else's feyton carriage
While there are plenty of new summer
homes in the city, it is also filled with these
old, somewhat sad buildings.






















View from the top of the island overlooking the other islands


After the feyton is where my lack of planning came into play. We had just missed one ferry and the next ferry wasn't for 3 hours. What were we to do? Well, after a nice stroll along the waterfront, we decided to hang out in typical Turkish fashion. We joined the locals bathing on the rocks, although Belle was the only swimmer; we enjoyed some dondurma and lokma (not to be confused with lokum/turkish delight). Once our bellies were once again full, we smoked some nargile, also on my bucket list, and taught ourselves how to play backgammon (Tawula in Turkish).


Istanbul views from the Büyükada shoreline

Everyone hanging out on the shoreline - swimming,
sunbathing, eating, or my favorite pastime - people watching

Dondurma and lokma - lokma was a little
sweet for my taste

Apple nargile AKA hookah

Getting there:
Check the ferry times here (fast ferry) or here (conventional ferry). You can catch the ferry from Kabataş on the European side or Bostanci on Asia side.

What to See:
- St. George Monastery - not much remains, but if you don't mind making the trekk up there, you might as well check it out
- Panoramic views - head up to the top of the island to get great views of the other islands, or check out the shoreline by the docks for great cityscapes of Istanbul
- Relaxation at work! Do as the locals do and just sit back and enjoy the quiet and sun.

Tuesday, June 26, 2012

Turkey Bucket List

I have never kept a real bucket list. I think I have a place in my brain where I make notes of things I would like to do and places I would like to go. I also think this is the same places where I keep information like why did I just get up off the couch and walk into the bedroom?

So, if you get my point, I never really remember all of it. So, I have decided to make a formal, printed online bucket list for Turkey and then try to get as much done as I can. And yes, I'm putting things on here I have already done to make my list look like I have accomplished something. Let's be honest, we all do that sometimes, right?

Istanbul

Visit Aya Sofia









Visit the Blue Mosque









Visit Topkapi









Visit Dolmabahce Palace and check out the aviary









Visit Chora Church









Visit Suleymaniye Mosque













Climb the City Walls










Take a Bosphorus Boat Cruise









Haggle at the Grand Bazaar for a rug









Visit the Basilica Cisterns









Buy some spices from the Spice Market









 Go to a meyhane










Check out the views from the top of the Galata Tower









Take a ride from Europe to Asia
Ride a bike on one of the Princes Islands
Smoke nargile
Take a Bosphorus Boat Cruise at night
Hang among the 'glamorous' at Suada (that little island owned by Galatasaray)
Brave up and try a hamam
See the Whirling Dervishes
Roam the ruins of Rumeli Fortress
Take a trip to Asia to check out Beyberli Palace

Other parts of Turkey:
Revitalise in the springs at Pamukkale









Play among the fairy chimneys in Cappadocia









Ignore my fear of heights and take a hot air balloon ride in Cappadocia









Tour the Gallipoli Battle Grounds









Search for Brad Pitt in the ancient ruins of Troy









Relax on a boat in Bodrum









Wander the ancient ruins of Ephesus









Sate my curiosity of why men wrestling in oil is a spectacle in Edirne
Catch the sun rising over Mt. Neirut
Trekk to Trabzone and the nearby monestary
Imagine we live in old Ottoman times in Safranbolu
Soak up the sun in Oludeniz and Fetiye
Take a drive along the Lycian Way
See the dervishes in Konya

I will try to keep this as an ongoing list - adding pictures when I've knocked one off the list or found something else fabulous to add.

Other expats of and/or visitors to Turkey - what are some of your must not miss sites I should add to my list?